Guide
What diamond criteria to favour ?
There are multiple shapes of cut diamonds. We distinguish the round brilliant cut from the so-called "fancy" cuts, such as princess cut, emerald, oval... and many others.
The shape of the round brilliant is without a doubt the most accomplished, the one for which the study of the optimal proportions has been the most thorough. It is also the most classic, the most universal, carrying all the symbolism associated with the round shape.
Fancy" sizes are generally less expensive than round sizes, which are more difficult to evaluate. The quality of proportions and size will greatly influence the price.
The choice of the shape of the cut diamond is generally determined by the shape of the original rough diamond and the position of the inclusions.
Absolutely perfect and timeless aesthetics, the round brilliant cut remains the sure value. Calibrated in 1919 by Marcel Tolkowsky to give it maximum brilliance and shine, the stone has 57 facets. This shape has remained the most sought-after since then because it is the most brilliant. The certificates of the GIA, HRD and IGI laboratories (the three most reputable) note all its size parameters. Ratings range from Fair (Poor) to Excellent. We recommend diamonds with either Very Good or Excellent cut ratings.
Below we will introduce you to each of the main shapes. The preference for one over the other is very personal: it is a purely aesthetic choice. But it also depends on the style of jewelry you want.
In addition to the shape, there are other criteria to consider when choosing a diamond: cut, clarity, weight and color. For more information, you can read our article: what quality criteria should a diamond have?
The princess is particularly adapted to architectural jewelry with clean lines. It is a square or rectangular cut, with generally 76 facets that ensure a strong sparkle. A princess cut is smaller and less expensive than a round brilliant of equal weight. The width of the table requires good purity. For princess sizes, we therefore recommend that you prefer IF-VVS-VS purities and avoid SI1-SI2 and Piqué.
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Originally, it was reserved for emerald stones, from which it takes its name. The Emerald cut gives a translucent light, unique of its kind. It is a distinguished cut, sober but very "class". Requires diamonds of good purity: the table is important and the slightest defect becomes visible. This is why the emerald diamond must be pure or VVS-VS. At worst SI1, but then the inclusions must be on the side.
The 56 facets of the oval waist give a resolutely modern shape that unites the classicism of the round brilliant and the elegant femininity of the more elongated shapes such as the marquise and the pear. Often set as a center diamond on solitaires or rings, the oval shaped diamond can also be set as a surrounding stone. There are also very beautiful oval diamond wedding rings.
A 58-faceted drop of water, often worn as a pendant, which holds as much of the round waist as the marquise with its rounded and pointed edges. The pear shape is by far the most difficult to choose because it is rarely well cut. It is indeed very difficult to find the right compromise between its length and width. But a beautiful pear shaped diamond is a marvel of nature and human work.
The cushion diamond is a very trendy shape nowadays because jewelry brands have used it a lot in their creations in recent years. Very elegant and very brilliant, it is a good alternative to round diamonds, even if its brilliance remains nevertheless inferior to that of the round brilliant diamond. The ideal is to set it on a ring with round brilliant diamonds around it to enhance its brilliance.
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